VINTAGE RAILROAD TRACK ANVIL HOW TO
If you don't know how to weld high C steel, don't have the welder or whatever you can use it just the way you found it.
VINTAGE RAILROAD TRACK ANVIL FULL
Do NOT use as quenched! This is high carbon steel, it will chip, break maybe even shatter if you hit it at full hardness. Heat treat appropriate to simple high C steel and temper to about R50 on the face. Preheat appropriate to welding simple high C steel. Do all your rough shaping on the horn(s) or whatever shapes before welding. I recommend as part of the prep, you torch openings in the web of the upright rails (and welding spacers if necessary to the upside down rail) so you can get a good solid weld between the three. OR you can leave a short extended length on both rails on one end for a swage with some shaping and welding.Īt any rate this makes a decent weight, good face, good if offset horn(s) and stable solid foot for some extra prep and welding compared to just adding ballast. If you want you can leave it long on both ends for a square horn for a double bic. This gives you a nice flat face and a horn is simply a matter of leaving one of the bottom rails longer than the face and shaping it as you like. The shipping configuration for this purpose is two up and one down on top. I built anvil # 4-5 worked a lot better I simply stacked sections in the shipping configuration and welded it up. I torched the rails off another piece and welded them into the web of my anvil which brought the weight up to around 65lbs.
I got around the weight issue building my third or fourth one by welding some extra weight into the web. Rails are very high quality rolled steel in the 1080 range, the correct numbers are available here with a simple search if you want them. Well, once again this particular group of "everyone" is either misinformed, doing it wrong or have different needs. I have two railroad anvils that I use for forging when I need to work on an area that is too small for my larger anvil to fit. In your area there are number of black smithing group that can put you in line for a regular anvil so it might not be worth your time to go to that trouble. If you take the time to finish it well the railroad anvil will repay you with good service. You will need a heavy vice and workbench to substitute for some of features of a regular anvil.
The surface is small which can be a problem but for a practice anvil of basic techniques they are good.- Until you decide on your purchase of a heavy anvil. When tied down to a heavy end grain timber block they can take any thing an hand hammer can show them. They make a decent small anvil if you tie them down with heavy (5/8 or 3/4 bolts ) to a heavy support. Either build up with hard facing rod and grind square, or just grind square.
The uneveness can be cured in one of two ways. The only problem with rail road anvils is that they tend to be worn un-evenly and are some what light weight.
0 kommentar(er)
